The Magician and I were both in high spirits as we set off from Cee. Every few steps taking a moment to enjoy the autumn sun on our skin. Marveling at the warms so late in the year, especially after the few days of rain and wind fighting each step. As we climbed up the other side of the hills from Cee, we got to enjoy watching the sunrise through the port. Every single step we took further towards Fisterra left us carefully looking for that moment we would reach over 1,000 miles walking.
As we continued our walk all day, we’d agreed to not stop walking till we reached Fisterra. This took us past Corcubión. This is a cultural heritage site for a very good reason, its absolutely beautiful here. As we walked further on towards Fisterra we walked back to tarmac roads until we reached further views of the sea. Looking out into the distance we could see the small fishing village, nestled next to the long white sandy beach. As we reached the beach I took my shoes off, enjoying the feeling of my feet being free of my trainers. The Magician did the same but wriggled his toes in the sand. We were serenaded by hundreds of seagulls flying around us. Here there used to be a tradition that you would burn your clothes once you got to Fisterra and wash yourself in the sea. Unfortunately (or fortunately) you’re not allowed too anymore. So we just dipped our toes in the cold sea and picked up our Camino pilgrimage shell off the beach.
There is a lot of history here, as Celts used to perform rituals to the sun. But the Roman’s called this place Finis Terrae (the end of the earth), and it was where the Mare Tebrosum (the sea of darkness) began (later known as the Atlantic). When the tomb of the Apostle (St James) was discovered here, they found pagan and Christian evidence there also. This also included the ruins of Ermita de San Guillermo (estimated 10th// 11th century). Childless couples would spent the night here, in the hope that they would then get pregnant.
As we walked through the small fishing village, we managed to see the last of our group that set off from Santiago a few days earlier together. These goodbyes came teary with a sadness and shared joy that we’d all now finished our pilgrimage together. This wasn’t truly finished though until we slowly walked on to the light house beyond Fisterra. Here the Magician burned a letter he’d carried for a friend since the beginning of the Camino. And I finally took my broken pilgrim shell I’d been carrying for months into the sea. Our Camino was finished in a rush down the hill to get the bus back to Santiago.