Our Camino family woke earl-ish in the morning, setting off from the albergue all together. Quickly we separated into two groups. My Brother, a beautiful Spanish woman and I walked together all morning. With light- hearted conversations, we spent most of this morning laughing about my Brother having 2 wives, and how we had to do as he bid. With rewards given in flowers in our hair. The dirt track took us over low hills, through mud, as the wind started to whip around us stronger and stronger, blowing leaves all around us in little cyclones, demonstrating the awesome beauty of nature.
Walking further we all stopped for a moment at the Ponte Macerira, a 14th century bridge. This had a major restoration in the 18th century, and is very beautiful and peaceful. Reminding me of the hundreds of horse drawn carts that must have run across it. We stopped in Negreira (the last place we could buy food and get cash for a while), eating a long lunch together before going to the local shop to get supplies for the evening. All the girls played with the make- up, much to the chagrin of the men. The Magician was especially uncomfortable with me putting on make-up. And it hit me that the Magician had never actually even seen me in a dress, let alone when I’m fully dressed to impress. And I had no idea what he normally wore in non- Camino life. This was going to be strange, almost as if we’d have to get to know these others sides of each other. These sides that didn’t have a place here.
Our group set off from the shop at different paces to each other. The Magician and I walked alone together. The weather in the afternoon continuing to get worse and worse, with rain beating down on us. Eventually the thick grey clouds gave way to thunder and lightening. This was one of the first times I actually started to feel worried walking on the Camino. We were walking along tarmac roads, with rain clouding visibility and the roar of thunder clapping around us. We kept walking on and on, agreeing to meet in Vilaserío for our stop in the evening. The Magician and I collapsed in the closest bar to avoid the rain waiting for our friends. Eventually they arrived one by one, and we dripped dried watching the sky get darker and darker around us. Agreeing that we would spend the night in the Municipal in Vilaserío, we worked up the courage to walk back out into the rain. My Brother and the Spanish beauty were already there waiting for us. They’d warned us it was a bit creepy… Well, that was an understatement. The Camino is a very old trail and to be honest sometimes you feel the history and energy of a place. But here you could have filmed any horror movie about a massacre. It was scary, especially as the rain and thunder continued to roll on, lighting up the pitch black night periodically.
We’d found a note from two of our group who’d entered and left again as they found it too creepy. We all agreed it was fine to stay for the night, I just wondered who would wake up alive in the morning….