Camino Day 42 (Larcereau- Arros- Cibits to Ourthiagne) 21.5K

Worse than the day before almost the entire walk today was on a main roads. But today was the day we would get to St Jean. And today was the half way point of the walk for me. Half of my journey completed, and the Magician and I weren’t looking like we’d separate any time soon, as we’d previously discussed week after week.

Due to St Jean’s location, a lot of people choose to end their Compostelle here (the official name for the Camino from Le Puy en Velay to Roncesvalles). So we would be starting to say goodbye to more and more people. And we’d also be meeting new walkers on the route. This would be nice, as the people who walked the Camino Frances are typically a younger crowd who mostly speak English on the route. I was dreading this slightly though as I’d been enjoying having the Magician to myself for most of the days we had on the walk recently. And the jealous eye monster in me wondered if, as we continued to talk of open relationships, whether this would be the time I’d actually be tested on this philosophy.

Walking in the St Jean unfortunately we had to spend a lot of time here, re- stocking on food, getting a new Camino passport for the Magician (as he was about to fill his first one), and me to post my divorce papers to my lawyer in UK. During this moment we spent about over an hour faffing with the post office in St Jean, that I started to see what love really was. The Magician stuck by my side throughout it all, and even paid the postage for my letter when I’d run out of cash. This might sound pretty basic to most people, but with my ex, we’d gotten into routines where I organised everything in our lives, and I was left to it with no appreciation. Here the Magician was doing the opposite role I used to live in, and told me he loved it, loved that I let him do it at his pace and he never once got mad or grumpy at me through the whole thing. I will admit we both got grumpy that we didn’t leave St Jean till 3pm, and the walk up the giant hill to Ourthiagne took us longer than expected. But never for one minute did he make me or let me feel bad that we’d been late mostly because of me.

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View over the Pyrenees

Once we arrived at the Gite in Ourthiagne we got to watch a beautiful sunset over the mountains. And we got to enjoy the magical evening with my French Camino Mummy, the Turtle, the Taiwan Angel and our first new Camino walkers (Three American forest fire fighters). Needless to say they’d past us on the walk up the hill. The Magician and I out of breath, them laughing whilst sharing a giant bottle of jack amongst themselves. Even having walked over 500 miles already, I was still unfit compared to some. And had to patiently remind myself everyone has a different Camino!

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